This December on the 16th, Atlanta Cutlery is continuing the practice of FREE SHIPPING DAY! That's right, by using the website below you can get FREE SHIPPING on any order with no purchase amount minimum! Sabers, knives, building materials and military memorabilia are all fair game! Also orders made on on the 16th are guaranteed to arrive in time for the holidays! Time to start making a list!
Thursday, December 1, 2016
Thursday, November 24, 2016
Friday, October 28, 2016
Wood and axes hold an important place in our evolution, and today, even with powerful and modern machinery helping us, it is amazingly satisfying to thwack and fell trees, chop and shape logs, and prepare campfire wood on our own with our axes. So, very often, we are asked, “How to choose the perfect ax?” Well, the answer is not straightforward and singular, like it was for Aesop’s honest woodcutter. While picking an ax, there is nothing which does not matter! To begin with, an ax comprises of its handle and the head. Both the handle and the head hold several nuances in their simple-looking geometries, which you will begin to notice and understand with time. However, the shape of the head is one of the most useful characteristics to determine the type of ax. So, if you are clear in your head what you want your ax to do, go ahead, and choose from the following.
Cutting Ax: Also known as the felling ax and the single bit, these are all-rounders when it comes to the wood-cutting job. They possess thin, sharp blades with a tapered head, and hence, can whack strongly into the wood and without much friction, and swing easily. Not just cutting logs, you can fell entire trees with these. If you could own only one ax, we would say, this is the one!
Splitting Ax: No, you are not just cutting wood every time. You may want to split the wood and tear it along its grains, and that is when you would need the splitting ax, or its bigger cousin, the block buster or splitting maul. With a wedge-shaped head and a broad butt (this side could be used as a hammer!), it drives into and cleaves the wood fibers adeptly with a stronger strike, rather than cutting across them. Though using this requires practice, this sledge-hammer looking implement can be a real badass and make its way through the fibers of even the hardest wood, and perhaps make you look cool while camping!
Shaping Ax: You are right, this is the one for making the finishing touches and squaring your timber. With a not-so-profound curve and flatness of the blade, this will help you when you want to deal with smaller surface areas, and make small, fine, and even cuts. Depending on the beveling of the two sides of the blade, this is a broad-ax capable of producing chisel cuts (single bevel, side ax, or chisel-edged ax) or scalloped cuts (double bevel ax).
And yes, you could even go for a double-bladed ax which performs two of the above functions! Ultimately, the call is yours.
Stay tuned for more tidbits!
At Atlanta Cutlery, we have gone the extra mile to bring to you to an all-embracing collection of dummy weapons and replica guns, touching upon the most remarkable moments of our gun history, from the Civil War to today’s times. After all, what better than a non-firing replica to satisfy our fleeting fancies, complement our decors and reenactment costumes, capture rarities from the past, and play to the spirit of gun-enthusiasts and collectors? Intriguing and safe for virtually anyone to handle, the collection, apart from the extraordinarily real-looking guns, also features dummy shells with caps, stick grenades and even pieces with leather holsters for a wholesome experience! It is tough competition between all these replicas, and the following picks, arranged chronologically, are sure to nudge your yearnings for them or even the originals!
Taken straight from the late 1700s, the Military Flintlock Pistol is the quintessential gun of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, which could be both firearm and club. Who knows, the real hardwood stock and working trigger could perhaps kindle in you the spirit of your long-forgotten ancestors? For all the history and gun geeks, the Versailles 1810 Flintlock Dueling Pistol – Nickel, a faithful imitation of the original in the Royal collection at Windsor Castle, effortlessly seals the deal!
The 1866 Double-Barreled Derringer, perhaps the favorite of its times, came with many variations in finish and decorations, and ruled the market for about 69 years. Our replica does justice to an expensive model, down to the most intricate of details, making it a great showpiece and a great addition to even the most elaborate collections.
Who does not want a WWII piece in their collection? The 1944 Paratrooper Carbine Replica and its 1941 version, with a moving bolt and trigger, and a detachable dummy mag, take emulation seriously and would look their best in your display stands and hands. For those looking for more modern icons, the .357 Magnum Dummy Gun, the replica of the .357 Magnum, satisfies all the demonstrative and display needs, with a supreme make and mobile parts – a trigger you can pull and a barrel which rotates!
Check the complete collection out for more amazing replicas and let us know if there is more you want!
Monday, September 26, 2016
I would love for there to be an end-all style of machete. Unfortunately, there are just too many specified tasks for there to be a single standout style. That being said, here are some of the most commonly used and most practical of machetes.
The Latin machete is probably the first thing that comes to mind, when someone mentions the tools of the jungle trade. Latin machetes are well balanced and have a straight spine from tip to tang. Effective at cutting through brush, it lacks a bit of luster when it comes to its chopping power. However, this straight edge lends itself well to chores around the campsite. The time-tested design has shown that if you're willing to put in the effort, then the rugged Latin machete will perform.
The Falcata style machete is my personal favorite and for good reason. Much like a kukri (which is really a knife), the tapered blade allows the weight to work for you when chopping but also allows you to carve with the blade since it is thinner and more maneuverable near the handle. Having a nice spear point also makes it suitable for defense, such as a slashing and thrusting weapon.
With a Two-Handed Machete nothing can stand in the way of your chopping might! Evident in the name, using two hands is key here and it works wonders. Chop down trees if you have the endurance for it, then split the wood to build a shelter. Unfortunately, this machete is far too cumbersome to perform small delicate tasks like carving or skinning. Best to bring a side knife!
Knives come in a multitude of sizes, shapes and strengths so that they can reliably perform a given task. Therefore, any given knife use has a knife designed for it. One of the most common inquiries we get is "what is the best knife for hunting?" While there is always an element of personal preference, here are some of our thoughts on a great hunting knife.
It all starts with the blade style. Skinning knives tend to have an accentuated curve about a half inch from the tip or at the "belly" of the knife. Slight curvature is necessary to do smooth, short, sweeping cuts when separating the hide from the meat.
Next up is length. Bigger is not always better in this instance. When the majority of the knife work is going to be on the inside, a smaller blade will maneuver better and easier. For this reason, keep your hunter around the four-inch mark to maintain easy control of the blade edge.
You want a knife with backbone! What is too often overlooked is the back or "spine" of the knife. A proper hunting knife will have some form of jimping or filed notches to grant multiple, secure positions with which to hold the knife. Not only does this add versatility to your approach, it looks great too!
When skinning, things can get awfully slippery, awfully fast. For this reason, a small guard to keep the fingers from sliding past the handle is an absolute boon. A roughly textured handle can also help in maintaining a sure grip, because for ACC every little bit helps.
Finally, and really most importantly in any knife purchase, is the knife steel. You want something that has amazing edge retention. Few things are as inconvenient as having to switch knives halfway through a job because of a dull edge. Worse still is having only one knife and having to stop and resharpen! There are many sturdy stainless steels that meet this requirement, or if you don't mind showing some TLC to your knife a high carbon blade is always a good bet.
Tuesday, September 20, 2016
There are many different types and brands of knife sharpeners available to the blade enthusiast, from honing with metal and stone to leather and abrasive belts. But ultimately, there are methods that see more use than others. Below are listed the three most common types of sharpening systems.
Metal: Metal or Titanium Carbide sharpeners are probably the fastest way to put an edge on nearly anything. But they are also some of the crudest forms of sharpening. A carbide sharpener works by having an angle preset with two blades in a fixed housing. The sharpener blades are usually made of much stronger substance than your typical knife blank, and when a dull edge is drawn across them, they shear the metal into a functional edge. This process isn't for your high-end collection knives; the shearing of metal means there is less blade for you to use and will eventually whittle your knife into something that resembles a toothpick. Still, when you need a quick rough edge, there is no faster or more convenient way.
Sharpening Stones: This is considered to be the "traditional" method of sharpening by most knife aficionados. It involves drawing a blade across a lubricated or "wet" stone at a precise angle to hone a blade edge. While this method does take some time to allow muscle memory to capture that precise angle, it can make a sharp edge like no other. There are also different grit stones for the different stages of sharpening: Coarse- for the initial grinding and starting an edge; Medium- where the blade starts to actually become sharp and for some, this is as far as they go; and lastly, Fine- an almost smooth stone that puts the finishing touches on your edge and makes it sharp enough to shave with.
Belts: Belt sharpeners are the more commercial way of getting an edge on a knife but there have been several manufacturers that have made miniaturized versions for people at home. By spinning an abrasive belt at high speeds, these sharpeners can grind multiple blades in a single sitting. Much like stones, varying grit levels are available for both initial edging and fine honing.